Cafe Di Napoli at 191 Hester street in Little ItalyDay 2 - 07/03/08
After just 6 hours of sleep, I was up early, too early - but I felt rested and ready to go by 6:00am. After a quick shower I ran across the street to pick up a copy of the Post. Read through it quickly as I had a cigarette, and then I was off to the Duane Reed over on Broadway near 102nd street (2681 Broadway).
A few words about the necessity for GOOD shoes while walking in New York...
I left home wearing my 1-year-old pair of Reebok High Tops, which were great for travelling. Very comfortable. But also very wore-out. I should have changed shoes when I arrived on Tuesday night, but didn't, thinking the Reeboks would be O.K. for one night of walking. They weren't bad, but I wasn't getting alot of arch support. I would pay for this choice. When I went out on Wednesday night, for a short walk, I pulled out the newer pair of Converse tennies (I had bought them about a month before, knowing I'd want some new shoes for walking while in NYC. I had worn them in and everything, but almost immediately after I bought them I realized they were not so comfortable.) I wore these on Wednesday night and slipped them on again as I was leaving for the day on Thursday...and the pain in my feet continued to grow worse as did the blisters appearing on my toes. These shoes were not going to cut it for the whole trip. I'd been in town just over 30 hours and my feet were seriously fucked up already...
So I headed over to the Duane Reed, to pick up some band-aids for my toes. I was early, arriving before 7:00am, which is what time the store opens. As I approached the store, I walked by a guy on the sidewalk who had a small table of books and magazines set up. I stopped to look at the books, and I was doing so, realized what was happening here. This guy had his little sale set up, and he was sleeping in the small alcove between the Duane Reed building and the next building over. He was homeless and was trying to make a buck by selling the things he was able to scavenge from the streets. I looked over his table and he asked if I saw anything I liked...unfortunately I did not. I told him 'Sorry'...and then walked on over to the Duane Reed, which by this time, was finally opening for business. The guy didn't pester me or anything, he just looked bummed that I wouldn't buy anything from his table. I picked up my supplies and was on my way...but this guy was now in my thoughts. How long had he been there on Broadway, selling his scavenged items, surviving on the street? How come the cops hadn't picked him up yet? He didn't seem to be bothering people...and the Duane Reed people HAD to take notice, he was right outside their door...the whole situation intrigued me and I decided I would check back later and see if he was still there.
I quickly fixed up my toes, decided I would buy a better pair of shoes as soon as I could, and headed off, East, over to Central Park. I walked East and South through the park, taking notice of the many statues located throughout the park. Many I had seen previously, some I had not. I walked around the southern part of the Central Park Reservoir, and continued East, out of the park and across to the East River near 79th street. I had never really walked the Upper East Side, so I headed south, along the waterfront. As I neared 71st street and the 'New York Hospital' I noticed SEVERAL homeless persons, still asleep in the early morning sunshine, situated on the park benches along the river. I thought it unusual to see so many in one area, but after looking around and thinking about it, it seemed a logical enough place...not too many joggers/dog walkers, plenty of fresh river-air and warm sunshine, generally out of the sight of casual passers-by due to location near the river and the highway.
I continued south, noticing the 'Tram' coming across the river in front of the Queensborough Bridge. I decided that I would ride the Tram at some point during this trip, just not today. I soon headed back West, when waterfront redevelopment prevented me from continuing along the river. I cut a few blocks west, and then south. I soon came across a shoe store, and given the condition of my feet, couldn't buy a new pair of shoes fast enough. I picked up a pair of Reeboks, put them on, walked out of the store, and threw my Converse shoes in the trash right outside the store. My feet felt immediately better, but the damage had already been done...
I grabbed a subway ride down to the Cooper Union stop, then walked over to St. Marks place to do some shopping, etc. I walked past the recently-closed CBGB retail shop. All that remains are a few band stickers stuck to the front windows...continued on down the street a few doors to Rocket Scientist Records (33 St. Marks Place). I was too early, as it was only abound 10:30am at this point. The place didn't open until Noon. So I thought I'd kill the time by walking back north, heading over to The Strand bookstore on the corner of 12th and Broadway( 828 Broadway). They were open, and when I walked in, I was greeted by all '18 Miles of Books'. My God! What an amazing place! I took some time and browsed all the great NYC book, then found the music section, and came up with a copy of 'High On Rebellion - Inside The Underground at Max's Kansas City' by Yvonne Sewall-Ruskin. I was looking for a few other books as well, and was quite disappointed that they did not, despite the MILLIONS of books they had here, have the titles I was looking for. But the staff was friendly and helpfull and the inventory of the store is just...mind boggling.
Soon I was on my way again, now heading over to take a few photos in front of 213 Park Avenue South...the old Max's Kansas City building. When I photographed it a year or so ago, it was shrouded with scaffolding. I got my photos, then headed over to Roger's Time Machine (207 West 14th Street) to browse his selection of vintage comics, pop culture oddities, and OLD ROCK AND ROLL MAGAZINES. He had quite a selection...almost too much to choose from, I couldn't make up my mind what I wanted to buy or how much I wanted to spend. And he said he was in the process of bringing in even more items. Old copies of 'Circus', 'Rock Scene', 'Creem', 'East Village Eye', and 'New York Rocker'...all great stuff in really great condition. A bit pricey, but you don't have to wait for the item to arrive in the mail. I could have easily spent all my remaining cash right there in that store. So I got the hell out of there before I had a chance...
After a quick lunch at Subway (it was right there! And I was Hungry!), I went back south, down to St. Marks, and back to Rocket Scientist Records, which was now open. As I walked up to the enterance I noticed a copy of the Magic Tramps CD 'Kickin' Up Moonlight Dust' prominently displayed in the front window of the shop. I went in and began to browse around, finding all kinds of great music. Again, I had to keep tight reign on my wallet, as I found several CD's I would like to have bought. I settled for just one, The Dictators 'Live in NYC - 1977'. I paid the guy at the counter and then headed off up the street to stop at Gem Spa (131 - 2nd Avenue) to get a soda before heading off to my next destination.
I walked south now, down to the Bowery. Time to check out the abomination that is the John Varvatos Gallery (315 Bowery), the former home of CBGB. I walked in and found the place to be almost empty of customers. Those that were there seemed to be doing the same thing I was...just looking. I was overcome with nostalgia as I walked through the store, looking at odd bits of the original CBGB walls left intact with layers of fliers/stickers/graffitti/etc. There is some amazing Rock memorabilia lining the walls of the store, but as you look around, see the prices being charged ($700.00 for a Ramones T-shirt!!), and remember what had taken place in this space before this, the history of the room, you start to feel sick to your stomach. At leat I did...I had to get out of here and couldn't do so quickly enough. I hope this piece of crap closes as soon as possible and they just tear the building down...as I said...it's an abomination.
Then I went next door to the Morrison Hotel Gallery, formerly the CBGB Gallery space. I was happy to see that the Bob Gruen photo exhibit 'Rockers' was still on display. It took me almost an hour to walk through and read all the great stories connected to the photos. The whole thing is a photo-history lesson on 1970's NYC rock and roll. There was even a 'Typical Teenage Rocker's Bedroom' set up in the exhibit, featuring magazine pages/posters stapled to the walls, all articles featuring photos by Gruen. Of course I had seen many of the photos in magazines and books over the years (and quite a few I had never seen before) , but seeing them all blown up to larger sizes from the original negatives...it was very impressive. As were the prices listed on the flyer they gave me as I walked in...I just can't believe people have that kind of money to spend on a photo for their living room. I love Bob's work, always have...and I hope he managed to sell some pieces at this showing, but I'll have to make do with my old magazines and books.
When I walked out of the Morrison Hotel Gallery, I decided it was time to head back up to the Hostel to drop off my purchases, and to take a brief rest. I laid down for about an hour and a half, then got up and dug out my Village Voice. I was thinking about going to see MURPHY'S LAW at the Knitting Factory (74 Leonard Street). I called the phone number listed and was told the box office opened at 5:00. I called back at 5:00, 5:07, 5:18, 5:30. No answer either time. I figured it would be just as easy to just go down to the club and find out how much tickets were.
But first I had to attend to another task, trying to score a room for the following two nights. This was going to be my second night in the hostel, and they were, as I stated previously, booked for the 4th and 5th. So I had to be out Friday morning by 11:00am. I first walked across 103rd street, over to the Central Park Hostel. Reasonable prices, but they said they were booked solid. So next I headed up to 106th street and Central Park West, to the 'Jazz On The Park' Hostel. I was there a only a few minutes when I learned that they were fully booked as well. OK...this could be a problem, but I decided I wasn't gonna lose alot of sleep over it, I'd deal with it as it came. Right now it was time to go check out info on this Murphy's Law show...
I took the subway from 103rd Street, down to Tribeca, and soon found the club. There were a few people out front, smoking, and I asked how much tickets were...answer was $15.00, a good price. But I was still unsure if I even wanted to go in the first place...I was going to a show the following afternoon, and I was antsy to just continue walking the city, so I decided on the later, as walking is free. I wandered south a bit, past City Hall Park, then headed East, over to the pedestrian walkway for the Brooklyn Bridge. I walked across the bridge, then back across over to the Manhattan side, all the while viewing the 'Waterfalls' sculptures, which were illuminated with a soft, white light as the evening sun dipped below the horizon. On my way back across the bridge, I decided my annual 4th of July meal couldn't wait one more day...I had to have it now. My stomache was rumbling and I was close by, so why not now?
Walked north, from the bridge, up into Little Italy, over to Hester Street.
Ah, there's the place...
The Cafe Di Napoli (191 Hester Street), right on the corner. I was seated at an open table, on the sidewalk, and soon after I placed my order, my basket of bread and oil arrived and I began to absent-mindedly munch away. Despite the fact that it was after 9:00pm and the place was pretty busy, my food arrived in short order. I had the same meal I had the previous two times I had eaten here...the Chicken Fettuccine Alfredo. It is some of the most amazing food I've ever eaten, and I had been waiting impatiently all year to return once again for more. I was not disappointed. It was, as usual, delicious. I ate every bite and contemplated licking the remaining sauce from the plate...but that would have just been rude. I sat for a while after finishing, just enjoying the atmosphere of the place. Soon it was time to walk...
I decided the last thing on the agenda for the evening was another trip up to the Village, this time to stop in at Manitoba's (99 Avenue B), the bar owned by Dictators' vocalist 'Handsome' Dick Manitoba. The bar was pretty busy, and I stepped in for just a few minutes actually, just to check out the collection of old rock photos/posters/etc. On the walls of the place is a great collection of classic 70's punk rock photos (many more by Bob Gruen) and concert flyers. Even the first issue of 'Punk' magazine, with it's handwritten address label made out to 'Richard Blum'...
A few minutes later, I was back out on the street, making my way back north to the Hostel for the evening. I decided that on my way there, I would first walk around the Washington Square area of NYU. I had never seen 'The Arch' before and was eager to add it to the list of things I'd seen. It appears to have seen better days and looks to be in need of some restoration. Still, it was quite impressive, all lit up at night with a rather-blinding white light.
I was soon on a subway, headed back up to 103rd street. When I arrived and came up on to the street, I looked across Broadway, and sure enough...there was that homeless guy, standing next to his things on the sidewalk. I wondered if he would still be there in the morning...
I turned in around 12:30am...tomorrow was going to be an interesting day to say the least.
To Be Continued...
After just 6 hours of sleep, I was up early, too early - but I felt rested and ready to go by 6:00am. After a quick shower I ran across the street to pick up a copy of the Post. Read through it quickly as I had a cigarette, and then I was off to the Duane Reed over on Broadway near 102nd street (2681 Broadway).
A few words about the necessity for GOOD shoes while walking in New York...
I left home wearing my 1-year-old pair of Reebok High Tops, which were great for travelling. Very comfortable. But also very wore-out. I should have changed shoes when I arrived on Tuesday night, but didn't, thinking the Reeboks would be O.K. for one night of walking. They weren't bad, but I wasn't getting alot of arch support. I would pay for this choice. When I went out on Wednesday night, for a short walk, I pulled out the newer pair of Converse tennies (I had bought them about a month before, knowing I'd want some new shoes for walking while in NYC. I had worn them in and everything, but almost immediately after I bought them I realized they were not so comfortable.) I wore these on Wednesday night and slipped them on again as I was leaving for the day on Thursday...and the pain in my feet continued to grow worse as did the blisters appearing on my toes. These shoes were not going to cut it for the whole trip. I'd been in town just over 30 hours and my feet were seriously fucked up already...
So I headed over to the Duane Reed, to pick up some band-aids for my toes. I was early, arriving before 7:00am, which is what time the store opens. As I approached the store, I walked by a guy on the sidewalk who had a small table of books and magazines set up. I stopped to look at the books, and I was doing so, realized what was happening here. This guy had his little sale set up, and he was sleeping in the small alcove between the Duane Reed building and the next building over. He was homeless and was trying to make a buck by selling the things he was able to scavenge from the streets. I looked over his table and he asked if I saw anything I liked...unfortunately I did not. I told him 'Sorry'...and then walked on over to the Duane Reed, which by this time, was finally opening for business. The guy didn't pester me or anything, he just looked bummed that I wouldn't buy anything from his table. I picked up my supplies and was on my way...but this guy was now in my thoughts. How long had he been there on Broadway, selling his scavenged items, surviving on the street? How come the cops hadn't picked him up yet? He didn't seem to be bothering people...and the Duane Reed people HAD to take notice, he was right outside their door...the whole situation intrigued me and I decided I would check back later and see if he was still there.
I quickly fixed up my toes, decided I would buy a better pair of shoes as soon as I could, and headed off, East, over to Central Park. I walked East and South through the park, taking notice of the many statues located throughout the park. Many I had seen previously, some I had not. I walked around the southern part of the Central Park Reservoir, and continued East, out of the park and across to the East River near 79th street. I had never really walked the Upper East Side, so I headed south, along the waterfront. As I neared 71st street and the 'New York Hospital' I noticed SEVERAL homeless persons, still asleep in the early morning sunshine, situated on the park benches along the river. I thought it unusual to see so many in one area, but after looking around and thinking about it, it seemed a logical enough place...not too many joggers/dog walkers, plenty of fresh river-air and warm sunshine, generally out of the sight of casual passers-by due to location near the river and the highway.
I continued south, noticing the 'Tram' coming across the river in front of the Queensborough Bridge. I decided that I would ride the Tram at some point during this trip, just not today. I soon headed back West, when waterfront redevelopment prevented me from continuing along the river. I cut a few blocks west, and then south. I soon came across a shoe store, and given the condition of my feet, couldn't buy a new pair of shoes fast enough. I picked up a pair of Reeboks, put them on, walked out of the store, and threw my Converse shoes in the trash right outside the store. My feet felt immediately better, but the damage had already been done...
I grabbed a subway ride down to the Cooper Union stop, then walked over to St. Marks place to do some shopping, etc. I walked past the recently-closed CBGB retail shop. All that remains are a few band stickers stuck to the front windows...continued on down the street a few doors to Rocket Scientist Records (33 St. Marks Place). I was too early, as it was only abound 10:30am at this point. The place didn't open until Noon. So I thought I'd kill the time by walking back north, heading over to The Strand bookstore on the corner of 12th and Broadway( 828 Broadway). They were open, and when I walked in, I was greeted by all '18 Miles of Books'. My God! What an amazing place! I took some time and browsed all the great NYC book, then found the music section, and came up with a copy of 'High On Rebellion - Inside The Underground at Max's Kansas City' by Yvonne Sewall-Ruskin. I was looking for a few other books as well, and was quite disappointed that they did not, despite the MILLIONS of books they had here, have the titles I was looking for. But the staff was friendly and helpfull and the inventory of the store is just...mind boggling.
Soon I was on my way again, now heading over to take a few photos in front of 213 Park Avenue South...the old Max's Kansas City building. When I photographed it a year or so ago, it was shrouded with scaffolding. I got my photos, then headed over to Roger's Time Machine (207 West 14th Street) to browse his selection of vintage comics, pop culture oddities, and OLD ROCK AND ROLL MAGAZINES. He had quite a selection...almost too much to choose from, I couldn't make up my mind what I wanted to buy or how much I wanted to spend. And he said he was in the process of bringing in even more items. Old copies of 'Circus', 'Rock Scene', 'Creem', 'East Village Eye', and 'New York Rocker'...all great stuff in really great condition. A bit pricey, but you don't have to wait for the item to arrive in the mail. I could have easily spent all my remaining cash right there in that store. So I got the hell out of there before I had a chance...
After a quick lunch at Subway (it was right there! And I was Hungry!), I went back south, down to St. Marks, and back to Rocket Scientist Records, which was now open. As I walked up to the enterance I noticed a copy of the Magic Tramps CD 'Kickin' Up Moonlight Dust' prominently displayed in the front window of the shop. I went in and began to browse around, finding all kinds of great music. Again, I had to keep tight reign on my wallet, as I found several CD's I would like to have bought. I settled for just one, The Dictators 'Live in NYC - 1977'. I paid the guy at the counter and then headed off up the street to stop at Gem Spa (131 - 2nd Avenue) to get a soda before heading off to my next destination.
I walked south now, down to the Bowery. Time to check out the abomination that is the John Varvatos Gallery (315 Bowery), the former home of CBGB. I walked in and found the place to be almost empty of customers. Those that were there seemed to be doing the same thing I was...just looking. I was overcome with nostalgia as I walked through the store, looking at odd bits of the original CBGB walls left intact with layers of fliers/stickers/graffitti/etc. There is some amazing Rock memorabilia lining the walls of the store, but as you look around, see the prices being charged ($700.00 for a Ramones T-shirt!!), and remember what had taken place in this space before this, the history of the room, you start to feel sick to your stomach. At leat I did...I had to get out of here and couldn't do so quickly enough. I hope this piece of crap closes as soon as possible and they just tear the building down...as I said...it's an abomination.
Then I went next door to the Morrison Hotel Gallery, formerly the CBGB Gallery space. I was happy to see that the Bob Gruen photo exhibit 'Rockers' was still on display. It took me almost an hour to walk through and read all the great stories connected to the photos. The whole thing is a photo-history lesson on 1970's NYC rock and roll. There was even a 'Typical Teenage Rocker's Bedroom' set up in the exhibit, featuring magazine pages/posters stapled to the walls, all articles featuring photos by Gruen. Of course I had seen many of the photos in magazines and books over the years (and quite a few I had never seen before) , but seeing them all blown up to larger sizes from the original negatives...it was very impressive. As were the prices listed on the flyer they gave me as I walked in...I just can't believe people have that kind of money to spend on a photo for their living room. I love Bob's work, always have...and I hope he managed to sell some pieces at this showing, but I'll have to make do with my old magazines and books.
When I walked out of the Morrison Hotel Gallery, I decided it was time to head back up to the Hostel to drop off my purchases, and to take a brief rest. I laid down for about an hour and a half, then got up and dug out my Village Voice. I was thinking about going to see MURPHY'S LAW at the Knitting Factory (74 Leonard Street). I called the phone number listed and was told the box office opened at 5:00. I called back at 5:00, 5:07, 5:18, 5:30. No answer either time. I figured it would be just as easy to just go down to the club and find out how much tickets were.
But first I had to attend to another task, trying to score a room for the following two nights. This was going to be my second night in the hostel, and they were, as I stated previously, booked for the 4th and 5th. So I had to be out Friday morning by 11:00am. I first walked across 103rd street, over to the Central Park Hostel. Reasonable prices, but they said they were booked solid. So next I headed up to 106th street and Central Park West, to the 'Jazz On The Park' Hostel. I was there a only a few minutes when I learned that they were fully booked as well. OK...this could be a problem, but I decided I wasn't gonna lose alot of sleep over it, I'd deal with it as it came. Right now it was time to go check out info on this Murphy's Law show...
I took the subway from 103rd Street, down to Tribeca, and soon found the club. There were a few people out front, smoking, and I asked how much tickets were...answer was $15.00, a good price. But I was still unsure if I even wanted to go in the first place...I was going to a show the following afternoon, and I was antsy to just continue walking the city, so I decided on the later, as walking is free. I wandered south a bit, past City Hall Park, then headed East, over to the pedestrian walkway for the Brooklyn Bridge. I walked across the bridge, then back across over to the Manhattan side, all the while viewing the 'Waterfalls' sculptures, which were illuminated with a soft, white light as the evening sun dipped below the horizon. On my way back across the bridge, I decided my annual 4th of July meal couldn't wait one more day...I had to have it now. My stomache was rumbling and I was close by, so why not now?
Walked north, from the bridge, up into Little Italy, over to Hester Street.
Ah, there's the place...
The Cafe Di Napoli (191 Hester Street), right on the corner. I was seated at an open table, on the sidewalk, and soon after I placed my order, my basket of bread and oil arrived and I began to absent-mindedly munch away. Despite the fact that it was after 9:00pm and the place was pretty busy, my food arrived in short order. I had the same meal I had the previous two times I had eaten here...the Chicken Fettuccine Alfredo. It is some of the most amazing food I've ever eaten, and I had been waiting impatiently all year to return once again for more. I was not disappointed. It was, as usual, delicious. I ate every bite and contemplated licking the remaining sauce from the plate...but that would have just been rude. I sat for a while after finishing, just enjoying the atmosphere of the place. Soon it was time to walk...
I decided the last thing on the agenda for the evening was another trip up to the Village, this time to stop in at Manitoba's (99 Avenue B), the bar owned by Dictators' vocalist 'Handsome' Dick Manitoba. The bar was pretty busy, and I stepped in for just a few minutes actually, just to check out the collection of old rock photos/posters/etc. On the walls of the place is a great collection of classic 70's punk rock photos (many more by Bob Gruen) and concert flyers. Even the first issue of 'Punk' magazine, with it's handwritten address label made out to 'Richard Blum'...
A few minutes later, I was back out on the street, making my way back north to the Hostel for the evening. I decided that on my way there, I would first walk around the Washington Square area of NYU. I had never seen 'The Arch' before and was eager to add it to the list of things I'd seen. It appears to have seen better days and looks to be in need of some restoration. Still, it was quite impressive, all lit up at night with a rather-blinding white light.
I was soon on a subway, headed back up to 103rd street. When I arrived and came up on to the street, I looked across Broadway, and sure enough...there was that homeless guy, standing next to his things on the sidewalk. I wondered if he would still be there in the morning...
I turned in around 12:30am...tomorrow was going to be an interesting day to say the least.
To Be Continued...
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